Things to do this year:
New dock lines - not needed
Reinstall foot pump - not needed
Install new water tank hose to foot pump - not needed
Plexiglass washboard - done
Tiller loop to dodger
Sheet to tiller experiments
Get a new knotmeter paddlewheel.
Cap Ben compass cover, about 6" diameter.
Dryer vent, computer fan heater accessory
Anchor locker changes?
I desparately need a bow roller, but how?
VC-17M - done
Check through-hulls, knotmeter - done
Splash! - done
Skylark is in the water! Take a look at the 2002 Prelaunch Pictures page.
The motor and gas tank have been removed. Someone needed a replacement Volvo MB10 motor and I decided to sell the motor and go to an outboard. I like the Tohatsu four cycle, either 6 or 8 horse.
Checklist of jobs prior to launch:
Wow, I can almost see the sunsets on the water. I'm sure that other things will pop up, I just have to be careful not to start projects which don't absolutely have to be done.
I have made a lot of progress with the anchor gear and windvane. In general the organization of work leading to splash date is pretty good. But cold weather is delaying a number of projects because I need at least 60 degrees F to paint, caulk and epoxy outside. I am optimistic that I can get a lot of work done when Spring finally arrives, and that the boat will be ready to be put in the water and anchored out by the end of May. Got to keep pushing on these projects!
Last year was a difficult year and my work schedule and volunteer work that I got caught up in took away most of my available boating time. Also low water levels meant that I could not get to the slip that I had reserved, and the marina owner raised the price from $1600 to $2100, which I had not budgeted for. So the bottom line is, I did not get my boat into the water last year. And had a particularly shitty summer.
This year will be different. I was napping after lunch on a sunny January day, when I suddenly realised to my delight: "it's countdown to launch season again!" Once again, Life has Purpose and Meaning!
Here is my list of items that I would like to have done by launch time, say early June, 2002. Many of these items are the same as last year, although I did make a lot of progress, there's just a lot to do and some of these things seem to be non-ending.
Assemble and install windvane. I built a windvane self-steering system according to Walter Murray's plans, and it is pretty close to being done. If I stay focused and work on it for a few Saturdays, it will be ready to mount on the boat. Its not really an essential item, but when it is done I will know where to put the next two items. It looks pretty cool, wonder if it will work. (April 5, 2002, painting parts, 90% done).
Build plywood boarding ladder. The boat has a bolt-through plastic and aluminum boarding ladder that looks like its going to pop a nut as I haul my ballast on board. This boat has high freeboard and if I am going to get in and out of a dinghy without swimming, it needs a better boarding ladder. I want to build a plywood ladder that hooks over the back of the boat, to starboard of the windvane. (April 5, 2002, bought fold down ladder, still working on installing).
Install outboard bracket. This is for carrying a dinghy motor of about 5 hp, as a backup motor and as a good place to store a dinghy motor. Got the bracket and an aluminum backing plate, now I just have to laminate some ply together for backing and to keep the bracket away from the hull. This goes on the port side of the windvane. (April 5, 2002, painting spacer and backing blocks, otherwise ready to drill some holes).
Assemble solar panel dodger. I bought a 100W solar panel. This sucker is big. The only way I can see to carry it is to mount it on top of a dodger. I want a dodger to solve the problem of leaving the hatch open for ventilation when it rains. I also dream of mounting a comfortable seat in the companionway and keeping a lookout under the dodger while the windvane steers me across Lake Michigan on a cold, windy, rainy night. Total decadence. Not an essential project, but I do have to find a place for that solar panel, otherwise it will just sit on the foredeck.
Assemble mooring rig. Through the past year I have been collecting mooring gear. I now have two 100 foot lengths of chain, a used 35lb CQR plow, two monster danforths, a couple of 10lb kellet weights, an assortment of shackles, swivels and eyes, two 150 lengths of anchor line, and a cool mooring buoy. So here's the plan. Prevailing wind comes from the northwest and I am anchoring in about 10 to 15 feet on mud and muddy clay. In that direction, I use 70' of chain to the CQR, and connect 30' of chain to the back end of the CQR and plant a big Danforth. So in the direction of the prevailing wind I have a train of anchors with a total of 100' of chain. Off in the other direction, I use one big Danforth on 100' of chain. Both chunks of chain terminate on a swivel, to which are attached two 25 foot mooring lines, and a mooring buoy on about 20 of line. I plan to use this system the first year, if I like mooring in this spot, I might buy a mushroom mooring anchor for next year. Putting the parts together is easy. (Done, April 4, 2002)
Tune up motor. I am hoping the old hunk of iron stays reliable for a while. New spark plugs should do it, I hope. If not... (he looks over to the brand new outboard bracket)
Build sculling oar. Feeling guilty about lack of motor maintenance, I probably should build myself a little no-wind insurance. Besides it would be fun to fool around with.
Rewire solar panel. Need to install the panel a little more permanently, now its just hooked up to charge the batteries over the winter. Not a big project. Then of course I might discover some other wiring that should be replaced, which could lead to a very big project.
Darkness-activated anchor light. Since I am anchoring out, I want to keep a legal anchor light. My big solar panel can keep up with a 12V light bulb running all night, so I need a light that will turn itself on and off automatically. Don't know if I will buy or build one. Probably buy (he says thinking about the last time he dripped molten metal all over his shoes while playing with solder). (Done, March 23, 2002)
Replumb head sink by installing a water jug in the cabinet under the sink. Remove long water line from old tank. Maybe do the same for the galley sink next year. Plan on carrying water to boat in the dinghy, maybe using 2 liter bottles in a backpack, or using the 3 gallon purified water bottles. (April 5, 2002, drains are done, new water pump in head, need to work out water supply).
Install four Trojan T-105 batteries under the settees. Since my solar panel pumps out megapower, I need real batteries, not these Wal-Mart marine batteries that seem to work fine. Well, maybe next year on this one.
Varnish tiller.
Cetol teak toerails.
VC-17 the bottom.
Wax topsides.
Fix the other cockpit hatch. (Done, April 5, 2002)
Add a nice piece of formica on the countertop.
Inflate tires on cradle.
SPLASH!
May 2001 List
The low water levels in Lake Michigan mean that I cannot get to my slip due to a sandbar. I am trying to figure out the best way to get in the water, and I am thinking of putting a mooring in on an inland lake, Lake Macatawa, in Holland, Michigan. I am looking at a location that is not far from the neighborhood I grew up in. I have to decide how to set up a secure anchor. Option 1: a +/- 200 lb mushroom mooring on 30 feet of 5/8" chain with a buoy. Option 2: a dual anchor system: a 50 lb Luke Fisherman anchor on 5/8" chain, then 50' further down the chain, a 35 lb CQR plow anchor, then 100 feet chain to the boat. The mooring will be easier to use, but the Luke and Plow combination allows me to take them both along when cruising to other areas. Still thinking.
I gave up trying to fix the Princess stove, and bought a Coleman propane camp stove. I adding a piece of plywood to cover the area of the galley that is open after removing the Princess. I am very disappointed because I wanted a reliable kerosene stove and I could not get it to work without leaking from the place where you screw in the burner. The stove was dangerous with this leak and after trying a dozen or more times to seal the leak and test the stove, it still continues to leak. I suspect that the burners that I purchased from Force 10 are low quality. Next time I would have A&H do the conversion with real Optimus burners. If I decide to go with kerosene in the future, I will buy a new stove, maybe a Taylors. For now, I am using the propane canisters and might upgrade to a larger tank hung on the stern rail in the future. I don't really have that much time aboard to cook, so the canisters will be OK for a while.
The rudder is almost complete. A few more days of work and it will be ready for finishing.
The wind vane is still in need of assembly and I need to cut out the vane rudder. When the rudder is complete I will focus on getting the windvane finished.
I would really like to get a Fulton four-stroke outboard bracket on the boat before I put it into the water, but I don't have an outboard yet, so its not really a priority for this year. I want to have a Portabote for a tender, and a 5hp 4cycle Nissan to push it. This motor should bring the Portabote up on plane and could also push the big boat enough to get me out to the big Lake.
I need a boarding ladder, and have a good idea how to make one out of plywood. I need to get started on this because if I am at an anchor a boarding ladder will be used a lot.
I also would like to add a solar LED anchor light. My batteries are not the greatest so I want a light that can stand on its own with power generation. This decision is made a little tougher because I can get a rebate from the state of Michigan to add a 100W solar power system on my boat. I guess I have to look at this further because I think I need new batteries anyway. Solar panels, regulator, new batteries, and upgrade of some of the wiring is what I am looking at. Or just adding an LED light. Still trying to make a decision.
I want a pair of oars to push the boat in calm if the motor wont start. I know how to make them, I just need to get to the lumberyard.
Here's a list of prioritized projects for May 2001:
Spring Preparation and ideas for Summer
3/16/01 - Project Checklist
The work items that have to be done before splashing the boat are:
The projects that I would like to do eventually include:
Winter Improvements
11/18/00 - Its snowing! Started the electric heater and fan Saturday morning and let the boat warm up a little. Brought the rudder inside to cure for a week before sanding. Got a big pail of hot water and bleach and a sponge and wiped down all the interior wood. Removed the port settee back, put in garage, now there is a little more room and its comfortable as long as I put the smaller cushions behind the back cushion. Just enough room to nap on the settee when its pulled out, without having to lift the back every time. Stored the back in the garage.
11/12/00 - Rudder progress. Cut an opening for lead shot in the center two layers. Laminated the bottom three layers together, filled the opening with about 10-15 lbs. of shot, poured epoxy all over the shot, filling the opening, laminated the top layer and put 6 large pails of water on top to weight it down.
11/11/00 - Pulled out the portapotty and the hose. A real mold factory in there. Figured out where the pintles and top of the rudder need to be located on the new rudder. Cut the four layers to the right size. Checked the raw water strainer, it was clear but its just a piece of plastic that could break easily, will look for something better. Put the electric heater in the boat with a fan to ventilate the boat.
Spring Preparation
5/11/00
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TANZER 28 LAUNCH PREP
Work Plan